Jimbo here to teach guys a new skill that will prove once-and-for-all that they still “got a set”, (without… you know… actually having to show them off and gross everyone out).

So I ask you: Ever use a “cut-throat” straight razor?

Most guys haven’t, (suggesting that men haven’t been men since the days of Al Capone).

But things are changing.

Fairly recently some brave souls have started testing the waters of manhood by trying out straight-razor shaving for themselves (and thus confirming that they still have testosterone flowing in the veins).

Is it safe?

Well, fact is, not so long ago, (in the timescape of glaciers that is), real men built cities with hot steel rivets… called women “dames” (while admiring their gams)… operated heavy machinery with a bottle of rye in their hip pocket (sometimes having an arm or two ripped off)…

…and shaved with a straight razor.

I guess it’s understandable why today some men (girlie-men) would be concerned about placing a razor-sharp blade against their face and near vital arteries in the neck, but back then they didn’t.

Which is why this skill is not for the weak and sniveling. Cowards and shirkers need not apply here.

But straight-razor shaving is a skill worth learning because the task itself is actually quite easy, (and the risk rarely greater than playing 3-bullet Russian Roulette).

• Straight Razor Anatomy: Know your enemy.
• Holding The Razor: Controlling the beast.
• The Gear: Ain’t just the razor you need.
• Doin’ The Deed: Putting blade to face.

Anatomy Of A Straight Razor:

The Guts.

First thing you should know is the actual anatomy of the straight razor. Means you can “talk shop” and at least pretend you’re an old grizzled expert who’s been shaving this way for 20 years.

The Blade: There are various widths and types of steel available. But as a beginner you should, for example, stick with a wider blade — like perhaps 6/8 or 5/8th inch concave high carbon stainless steel blade. The blade should arrive razor-sharp, but you’ll still have to tune it up on a leather “strop” before getting started.

Head and Point: There are different types of points and heads depending on your skill level and preference. They include: Round, Square, French, and Barbers Notch.

Don’t you hate that? I mean for Pete’s sake, just tell me what I need.

Okay, I will.

A beginner should use a rounded head and point which makes it safer and more forgiving. Means you’ll get a good clean shave while still retaining both ears.

The Handle: Also known as the “scales”. Usually made of wood and stainless steel.

The Tang: Not just an orange drink for astronauts. The tang (or tail) of the straight razor is where you’ll rest your pinky finger or your ring finger — not because your pinky is exhausted but to control the blade.

The Shoulder and Heel: Near the tail end of the razor’s edge is the Heel. The Shoulder is just opposite of the Heel. This area is pinched between your thumb and forefinger to also help control the blade, (because maintaining control of razor-sharp stuff on your face is important).

Holding The Razor:

Controlling the beast.

There’s not really one right way to hold the razor, (which kinda is like saying there’s no one right way to drive a car while handing the keys to my 12-year-old nephew).

You probably should know the basics. So here’s a standard way to hold a straight razor that’s worked for millions of users.

1. Open the razor 250-270 degrees.
2. Place your pinky finger, or your ring finger, on the Tang (Tail).
3. Place your thumb near the Heel of the blade.
4. Wrap other fingers over the back of the shank, pinching the shoulder/heel area between your thumb and forefinger.

This is where you should start. You’ll likely alter this grip when shaving various parts of the face.

But ultimately, it’s all about having firm control of the blade.

As you gain more experience, you will develop your own unique style, (hopefully not Bill-The-Butcher’s style).

Equipment:

Gearing up.

You’re going to need more than just the razor. Let’s go through the manly equipment.

The Brush:

Straight-razor shaving requires that you “soften” the skin and stubble before and during the shave to avoid nicks and cuts and to achieve a smooth close shave.

The brush is a vital part of making all that good stuff possible because it not only creates a thick lather, but it’s also capable of holding hot water.

Good brushes are made from badger-hair because it can hold onto an abundance of hot water and foamy lather, (although I’ve found it darn tough to catch this wiley backwoods critter).

Synthetic brushes, (or Boar hair brushes), are cheap and common, (which also happens to perfectly describe some long-gone college girlfriends), as they simply cannot whip up a good lather nor hold a quantity of hot water essential to softening thick facial hair.

Soap:

Okay… first of all, forget the weird gel or foam that comes from a can. There are a couple of reasons for this.

First, the lather is best applied very warm, (and putting that can of Foamy into the microwave is a bad idea).

A good brush holds a LOT of moist, hot, beard-bustin’ lather which prevents the blade from “skipping” and “dragging” over the skin, causing nicks and skin irritation.

Another reason: The brush actually helps “lift” each facial hair giving the blade a good shot at trimming the bristle close and clean.

Plus the brush, cup, and soap are all part of the ancient manly tradition that is straight-razor shaving. Best not to alter it, (or else face the angry man-gods).

The idea is to slow down and immerse yourself in the true art of shaving like a real man. That includes taking the time to whip up your own hot lather.

The Strop:

A leather strop is a quick way to spruce up the blade before and after shaving.

To be clear, stropping does not “sharpen” the blade in the classical sense of the word; i.e. it does not remove material and make the blade thinner like a honing stone.

No, instead its main function is to smooth and align the microscopic teeth that make-up the edge of the blade, (yes, weirdly enough when you look closely there’s “teeth”).

A strop is a must to keep your blade sharp. There’s really no way around it. (Forget about sharpening it with a shop grinder. You’ll destroy it).

A strop has two sides, two variations of the leather. The rough side is for removing burrs, and a smoother side for finishing.

Polishing compounds and finishing pastes can be applied to both the rough and the smooth side.

One suggestion is to rub an aluminum oxide compound of approximately 9000-grit into the rough side of your strop. A chromium oxide-based, 50,000-grit polishing-compound can be applied to the smooth side.

These compounds will not only create a crisp and sharp edge to the blade but also condition the strop and make it last for years to come.

Strop your straight razor every time you shave.

The strokes should be slow and even, with light pressure.
Unlike a scene in a Hollywood barbershop, you should not forcefully speed through this process as it’s easy to accidentally slice the strop (that’s bad) and dull the blade in a way that can only be corrected by honing, (also bad).

Again, do not rush. It only takes a minute to correctly strop the blade back into peak condition.

The Stand:

For convenience and to protect your shave equipment use a handy stand where you can place your razor, cup, soap, and brush all in one neat location.

This saves you the trouble of having to dig through drawers where your shaving gear could get damaged or, worse, where an inadvertently open razor could present a safety issue, (unless of course you need a few new manly scars).

Doin’ The Deed.

Putting naked blade to naked face.

Now that you’ve gotten a brief overview of essential equipment, it’s time to pick-up the blade (with quivering hand) and actually shave your face.

Let’s walk step-by-step through the process:

1. Strop the blade. Follow the procedure as described earlier. 40 laps should do the trick.
2. Full Beard. If you have a full “ZZ-Top” beard, use a scissors or an electric trimmer to take it down as close as possible.
3. Hot Towel. Apply a hot towel to your face for a few minutes. If you don’t have time for this, shave right after a hot shower. While neither is required, (unless you’re like my neighbor Ralph who definitely needs a shower) it will make the whiskers softer and easier to shave.
4. Brush & Soap. Soak the brush in HOT water. Flick the water off and use the cake soap and cup to churn up a rich warm lather. The more you work it, the thicker the lather, (no need to spend an hour doing this. Few minutes should be fine).
5. Lather. Swirl the lather on your face (not the underarms) so that it works its way under each whisker. Note: Some guys like to shave their face in sections and therefore don’t lather the entire face but only each section at a time. Your choice.
6. Shave The Right Side. Hold the razor in your “strong” hand, (I will assume that’s your right hand and oh… it really doesn’t have to be all that strong).

Use your left hand to pull the skin taut.

Put the razor to your face at a 30-degree angle. You don’t need a protractor, but too steep will produce cuts and skin irritation. Not steep enough and you can’t cut the stubble.

Do NOT press hard. Use only light pressure and allow the razor to do the work. Use slow even downward strokes in the direction that your hair grows.

Shave the area from just under the sideburn down to the jawline. That’s it. I’m going to assume that you’re a total beginner and advise you to stop right there.

Finish the job with your crumby old disposable razor.

Rinse your face with warm water and, if time permits, apply a hot towel and then apply a conditioning aftershave to protect and soothe the skin.

For now, only practice on the right side of your face. Get comfortable wielding your new man-tool (okay, that sounded weird) and build-up a sense of confidence.

With time, you will get faster and more adept (and eventually not be walking around with half your face shaved).

I gotta say, the wife loves the smooth shave. And it’s a skill that will certainly draw nods of manly respect from the boys.

More “Man-Skills” to come.

Stay Manly,

Jimbo, Editor
Man Skills